Seeking treasures of the legendary Seven Cities of Cíbola, in 1540 Francisco
Vásquez de Coronado and his men struggled through the rugged mountains of eastern
Arizona. Though the Spaniard's quest failed, the name of this scenic highway recalls
his effort. You'll discover the area's real wealth on a drive over Coronado's old
route—rugged mountains covered with majestic forests rolling in blue waves
towards the horizon. The blazing gold of aspen in autumn is matched only by the
dazzling display of wildflowers in summer. The 123 miles of paved highway between
Clifton and Springerville twist over country little changed from Coronado's time.
When exploring this region, hikers, anglers, and cross-country skiers will find
themselves far from the crowds. You may spot some of the Mexican wolves released
between Clifton and Alpine. They're about German shepherd size—larger and
heavier than coyotes. A few backcountry areas frequented by the wolves may be closed.
Forest Service offices and the website
www.fws.gov/southwest/es/mexicanwolf/
have information on the wolf program.
The Apache-Sitgreaves
National Forests map shows many scenic backcountry loop possibilities. Allow enough
time for the journey through this high country—even a nonstop highway drive
requires three and a half hours. With some 460 curves between Morenci and Alpine,
this route certainly isn't suitable for those in a hurry. And you'll probably want
to stop often to enjoy the views and maybe have a picnic. Drivers should stock up
on groceries and gas before attempting the 89 miles from Morenci to Alpine; there
are no towns along this stretch, though Hannagan Meadow Lodge has a small store/gas
station. Also bring water as campgrounds and picnic areas along the way may not
have any.
Winter snows can close the highway from just north
of Morenci to Alpine between mid-December and mid-March, though the section from
Springerville to Alpine remains open. Miles of fine cross-country ski trails attract
winter visitors to the forests near Alpine and Hannagan Meadow.
Coronado's expedition marched through this area in 1540, unaware of the gold
and abundant copper ore lying deep within these hills. Mexican miners discovered
gold in 1867 and began small-scale placer operations. As the gold played out, Eastern
prospectors took an interest in the copper deposits. They registered claims and
by 1872 had staked out the town of Clifton. The nearby mining towns of Joy's Camp
(later renamed Morenci) and Metcalf also date to this time. Miners faced great difficulties
at first, as the nearest railhead was far away in Colorado and frequent Apache raids
interrupted work.
In 1878, Arizona's first railroad connected
the smelter in Clifton with the Longfellow Mine at Metcalf, nine miles north. Mules
pulled the empty ore cars uphill to the mine; on the way down, the mules got a free
ride. Three tiny locomotives, one on display in Clifton, later replaced the mules.
Miners worked underground during the first six decades; in 1937, after a five-year
Depression-era hiatus, all mining shifted to the surface, where it continues today.
Both Metcalf and old Morenci are gone now—Metcalf abandoned and destroyed,
and old Morenci quarried away. The new Morenci has a modern appearance and lacks
the character of an old mining town. Clifton, the Greenlee County seat, still has
its old buildings and lots of character. The imposing 1911 yellow brick courthouse
stands in the south part of town. Booze joints and brothels, where desperados engaged
in frequent shootouts, once lined Chase Creek Street. Today the street is quiet
and the old jail empty, but Clifton remains one of Arizona's more historically distinctive
towns. Clifton also claims fame as the birthplace of the Apache warrior Geronimo.
Sights
Clifton's old jail, close to the old train depot/Chamber of
Commerce, was built in 1881 by blasting and hacking a hole into the hillside. The
jail's first occupant turned out to be the man who built it, Margarito Verala. After
doing a fine job on the construction, Verala received his pay, got drunk on mescal,
and proceeded to shoot up the town. You're welcome to step inside the gloomy interior.
The 1880s Copper Head locomotive of the old Coronado Railroad rests next to the
jail. Local artists exhibit at the Art Depot (928/865-3467) in the old depot.
Chase Creek Street parallels US 191 on the opposite side of the creek. Strolling
along it, you can imagine how the scene once looked—when the boisterous miners
of old came looking for a good time. To see exhibits and artifacts of the old days,
drop into the Greenlee County Historical Society Museum (317 Chase Creek
St., 928/865-3115, call for hours, donations welcome). A large model (ca. 1915)
shows the ore deposits and mines of the area. The telephone switchboard and a beautiful
cherry wood fireplace mantle come from the old Morenci Hotel. Murals from the early
1900s have humorous folk art. Local history books sold here tell fascinating stories.
Mule Creek Road
Highway AZ 78 winds into the pinyon-juniper forests
of the Big Lue Mountains east of town and continues into New Mexico. Ponderosa pine
and oak grow at the higher elevations near the campgrounds. Begin at the "Three
Way" junction nine miles south of town. You can stay at Black Jack Campground
(elev. 6,300 feet) about 11 miles in and at Coal Creek Campground (elev. 5,900 feet)
five miles farther. These small campgrounds can usually be reached year-round; no
water or fee.
San Francisco River Scenic Drive
Forest Road 212 winds from Clifton
east up along the San Francisco River past ranches, old mines, and canyon scenery
to Evans Point. Cars can travel at least a few miles and high-clearance 4WD vehicles
can go farther. Head up Frisco Avenue on the west side of the river, cross the river
on a concrete bridge, and continue upstream. Staff at the Clifton Ranger District
office and Greenlee County Chamber of Commerce can advise you on this and other
backcountry drives and hikes.
Events
Horse races run in late March or early April at the fairgrounds
in Duncan. Clifton celebrates Cinco de Mayo on the weekend nearest May 5th.
The Greenlee County Fair and Rodeo entertains during September in Duncan.
A Parade of Lights brightens Clifton in early December.
Recreation
Cool off in the outdoor swimming pool (928/865-2003)
near the plaza in Morenci. Play golf at the nine-hole Greenlee Country Club
course (928/687-1099) in York Valley, 12 miles southeast of Clifton via US 191 and
AZ 75.
Accommodations, Campgrounds, and Food
Rode Inn Motel (186 S. Coronado
Blvd., 928/865-4536, $45 s, $50 d) is in south Clifton. Morenci Motel (928/865-4111,
$59 d) lies six miles up the highway from Clifton and has a restaurant. The municipal
North Clifton RV Park (928/865-4146 or 866/996-2787, $10 tent, $15-19 RV
w/hookups) lies next to a large city park; turn off the highway on Zorilla Street,
one block north of the depot, then turn left 0.5 mile on Frisco Avenue.
Clifton has several cafes along the highway. Another option is a picnic—you'll
find tables just off US 191 in Clifton south of the San Francisco River bridge and
at a park just north of the Rode Inn. The Morenci Motel's restaurant (928/865-4111,
lunch and dinner most days, $5-12) offers American and Mexican dining. Golden
City Chinese Restaurant (928/865-5941, Mon.-Sat. for lunch and dinner, $7-10),
Copper Canyon Cafe with American and Mexican basics, and R&R
Pizza Express (928/865-2200, Mon.-Sat. for lunch and dinner, $4-13), lie across
the street in Morenci Plaza. Stock up on groceries at Bashas' in the shopping
plaza, especially if headed north, as no supplies or gas are available for the next
67 miles to Hannagan Meadow.
Information and Services
In Clifton's 1913 train depot, the Greenlee
County Chamber of Commerce (P.O. Box 1237, Clifton, AZ 85533, 928/865-3313)
provides information on the history, sights, and facilities of the area; hours depend
on volunteer staffing. You can see old photos of Morenci, taken before it disappeared,
and of Clifton in its busier days. Rockhounds can obtain directions to several agate
digs.
For hiking and camping information on the south half
of the Coronado Trail, see the Forest Service's Clifton Ranger District office
(9 miles south of Clifton at Three Way, 397240 AZ 75, Duncan, AZ 85534, 928/687-1300,
8 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Mon.-Fri.); a picnic area on the way in has a pair of shaded tables,
water, and toilets; it's also available to cyclists to camp as this is on the popular
Southern Tier cycling route between St. Augustine, Florida and San Diego, California.
Clifton's public library (101 School St., 928/865-2461, open Mon.-Fri.) is
across from the county courthouse. Morenci's public library (928/865-2775,
open Mon.-Sat.) is in the shopping plaza. Post offices are at N. Coronado
Blvd. in Clifton and in the shopping plaza in Morenci. Morenci Healthcare Center
(Coronado Blvd. and Burro Alley, 928/865-4511) provides medical services.
Morenci Mine Overlook
From this high vantage point, 10 miles north
of Clifton, you can gaze into one of the biggest man-made holes in the world. Giant
210-ton trucks look like toys laboring to haul copper ore out of the ever-deepening
pit. On the drive up from Clifton (elev. 3,502 feet) and modern Morenci (elev. 4,080
feet), you'll pass a solvent extraction/electrowinning plant and vast concentrator
buildings.
Granville Campground and Cherry Lodge Picnic Area
Both of these places
nestle in a wooded canyon at an elevation of 6,800 feet and make pleasant stops.
The camp and picnic sites are free and open all year; they lie on opposite sides
of the road, about 20 miles north of Clifton between Mileposts 178 and 179.
Honeymoon Campground
As its name suggests, this is a secluded spot
at the end of the 22-mile dirt Upper Eagle Creek Road. Elevation is 5,400 feet.
No drinking water or fee. You can fish for trout in Eagle Creek, stocked from May
to September. Turn west onto Forest Road 217 near Milepost 188 of the Coronado Trail.
Many of the ranches along the way date back to the late 1800s.
Juan Miller Campgrounds
The season runs year-round when not blocked
by snow at the upper (elev. 5,800 feet) and lower (5,700 feet) campgrounds; no drinking
water or fee. Head east one mile from the Coronado Trail on Forest Road 475. The
turnoff is near Milepost 189, 33 miles north of Clifton and 35 miles south of Blue
Vista. Forest Road 475 continues east to Blue River, another 15 miles, passing many
small canyons and ridges good for day hiking.
Rose Peak
At an elevation of 8,786 feet, Rose Peak offers great views
north to the Mogollon Rim, east and southeast to the Blue River area and far into
New Mexico, south to the Pinaleños, and west across the Apache reservations.
It's also a good place for birdwatching. The turnoff lies between Mileposts 207
and 208, about 51 miles north of Clifton and 17 miles south of Blue Vista. You can
reach the forest lookout tower at the summit on a one-mile (one-way) trail.
Strayhorse Campground
This free campground in the ponderosa pines at
an elevation of 7,600 feet is 64 miles north of Clifton and 4 miles and 1,600 feet
below Blue Vista; turnoff is between Mileposts 220 and 221. Raspberry Creek Trail
#35 leads east to Blue River in the Blue Range Primitive Area. Highline Trail
#47 goes west 14.5 miles, linking with several other trails; trails in this
area, west of Strayhorse Campground, tend to be harder to follow.
Blue Vista Overlook
In clear weather you can see countless ridges rolling
away to the horizon from this 9,184-foot vantage point. Signs identify many of the
mountain ranges, including Mt. Graham (elev. 10,717 feet), the highest peak of the
Pinaleños Range, 70 miles to the south.
The overlook sits
at the very edge of the Mogollon Rim, 68 miles north of Clifton and seven miles
south of Hannagan Meadow. Turn 0.3 mile southwest at the sign to paved parking,
picnic tables, an outhouse, and wheelchair-accessible views.
Bear Wallow Wilderness
This area west of the Coronado Trail contains
11,000 acres, including what's thought to be the largest stand of virgin ponderosa
pine in the Southwest. Bear Wallow Trail #63 follows Bear Wallow Creek downstream
through the wilderness west to the San Carlos Indian Reservation boundary, 7.6 miles
one way; elevations range from 8,700 feet at the trailhead to 6,700 feet at the
reservation boundary. You can hike on the reservation with a Black and Salt River
permit from the San Carlos Apache tribe.
Two shorter trails
drop down to the trail and creek from the north. Reno Trail #62 (1.9 miles
one-way) meets Bear Wallow Trail at Mile 2.6; Gobbler Point Trail #59 (2.7
miles one-way) meets Bear Wallow Trail at Mile 7.1.
Reach
upper trailheads from Forest Road 25, which turns off US 191 opposite the road for
K.P. Cienega Campground. Foresters at the Alpine Ranger District office have trail
descriptions and can advise on current conditions.
K.P. Cienega Campground
Sites in this idyllic spot overlook a large
meadow (cienega is Spanish for meadow) and a sparkling stream, though recent
fires have burned some of the surrounding ridges; there's no water or charge. From
the Coronado Trail two miles north of Blue Vista Overlook and five miles south of
Hannagan Meadow, turn east 1.5 miles on a dirt road to the campground. On the way,
you'll pass the trailhead for K.P. Trail #70, which heads into the Blue Range
Primitive Area.
Splendid forests of aspen, spruce, and fir surround the tiny village of Hannagan Meadow (elev. 9,100 feet), 22 miles south of Alpine. A network of trails offers some great hiking; several trails also lead into the adjacent Blue Range Primitive Area. Here, in areas relatively unknown, you'll find some of the best cross-country skiing and snowmobiling in all of Arizona. The road from Alpine is normally open in winter, though storms occasionally shut it down for a few days.
Hannagan Meadow Campground and Trails
This national forest campground
0.3 mile south of the lodge on the highway stays open from mid-May to mid-September;
no drinking water or fee. You can hike from the campground, if staying there, or
from the Ackre Lake-Fish Creek Trailhead just to the south. The Ackre Lake Trail
heads to Ackre Lake, 3.5 miles, and to remote areas of the Blue Range Primitive
Area. Fish Creek Trail follows the creek all the way from Ackre Lake to the
Black River, about 12 miles one-way.
Hannagan Meadow Lodge
The cozy rooms and rustic cabins at this remote
lodge (HC 61, P.O. Box 335, Alpine, AZ 85920, 928/339-4370 reservations, 928/339-4442
restaurant, www.hannaganmeadow.com)
offer comfortable year-round accommodations, all with private bath. Rooms and suites
in the lodge run $85–125 d, and log cabins go at $150–200; all discounted
off season. The lodge dining room (daily in season with a breakfast buffet, lunch,
and dinner) serves dinners $10–25 of steak, rib-eye steak, chicken, trout,
salmon, burgers, and pasta; off season call for reservations. A small gas station
(may run out) sits next door. You can rent snowshoe, sledding, and cross-country
ski gear. Horseback riding is offered in summer and snowmobile rides in winter.
The lodge has wi-fi.
Winter Sports
Cross-country skiers in the Hannagan Meadow area can
glide along four marked trails totaling about 27 km during the late November to
late March season. The Alpine Ranger District office and Hannagan Meadow Lodge have
maps and can advise on current snow conditions. A snowmobile trail starts from the
north end of the lodge area.
This rugged wilderness country lies south of Alpine along the Arizona-New Mexico
border. The south-flowing Blue River, fed by several perennial streams, neatly divides
the primitive area. The Mogollon Rim, with high cliffs forming the south boundary
of the Colorado Plateau, crosses the area from west to east. Geologic uplifting
and downcutting have created spectacular rock formations and rough, steep canyons.
Elevations range from 9,100 feet near Hannagan Meadow to 4,500 feet in the lower
Blue River.
Hiking down from the rim, you'll find spruce,
fir, and ponderosa pine forests giving way to pinyon pine and juniper. Wildlife
includes Rocky Mountain elk, Coues white-tailed deer, mule deer, black bear, mountain
lion, Mexican wolf, javelina, and bobcat. You may also see such rare and endangered
birds as the southern bald eagle, spotted owl, American peregrine falcon, aplomado
falcon, Arizona woodpecker, black-eared bushtit, and olive warbler. The upper Blue
River and some of its tributaries harbor small numbers of trout.
You have many day-hike and backpack options; check with the Forest Service office
in Alpine for maps, trail descriptions, and the latest conditions (fires have damaged
some areas). The best times to go are April to early July and from September to
late October. Violent thunderstorms lash the mountains in July and August. Snow
covers much of the land from November to March. You can hike from trailheads along
the Coronado Trail/US 191 on the west and Blue Road/Forest Road 281 and Red Hill
Road/Forest Road 567 on the north; other trailheads lie to the east in New Mexico.
This high mountain valley (elev. 8,046 feet), surrounded by extensive woodlands, attracted Mormon settlers who settled in 1879. They named their town Frisco for the nearby San Francisco River, but, inspired by the mountain setting, they later renamed it Alpine. Alpine (pop. 600) is an excellent base for hiking, mountain biking, fishing, hunting, horseback riding, golfing, scenic drives, and—in winter—cross-country skiing, sledding, and snowmobiling.
Events
Bush Valley Craft Fair takes place on Memorial Day weekend in
May. Worms strain for the finish line in Worm Races and Parade on the second
full weekend in July. Classic cars glitter in the Cool August Nights at Tal-Wi-Wi
Lodge on the first Saturday. The CASI Chili Cookoff spices up August on the
third Saturday. Shop early in the Bush Valley Christmas Bazaar on Labor Day
weekend.
Recreation
You can ride horses at Sprucedale Ranch (See Accommodations
below). Cross-country skiers roam the groomed trails northwest of town in Williams
Valley or south of town at Hannagan Meadow. See how far you can hit a golf ball
through the thin mountain air at Alpine Country Club (928/339-4944), which
offers an 18-hole course and a restaurant from April 15 to Oct. 15; head east three
miles on US 180, then turn south two miles and follow signs.
Accommodations
Places tend to fill up on summer weekends, when you'll
need reservations.
$50-100: Alpine Cabins (just east on US 180 from the
highway junction, 928/339-4440, closed mid-Dec.-March, $55 up to four persons) has
a variety of kitchenettes. Mountain Hi Lodge (928/339-4311) provides rooms
at $46 d weekdays, $53 d Fri.-Sat. and kitchenettes at $56-78 d weekdays, $61-78
d Fri.-Sat. a half mile east on Main Street. Coronado Trail Cabins & RV
(0.5 mile south of town on US 191, 928/339-4772) has cabins with kitchenettes from
about April to December at $55-69 d; RV spaces are open April-Oct. and cost $23
w/hookups.
Sportsman's Lodge (US 191 just north of the highway junction,
928/339-4576 or 888/202-1033) offers motel rooms for $50 d and kitchenettes for
$75 d. Tal-Wi-Wi Lodge (3 miles north of Alpine, 928/339-4319,
www.talwiwilodge.com) has a seasonal restaurant
and year-round rooms at $69 d, $79 d with fireplace, $89 d with hot tub, $99 d with
fireplace and hot tub. Sprucedale Ranch (P.O. Box 880, Eagar, AZ 85925, 928/333-4984,
www.sprucedaleranch.com) offers accommodations
at a working cattle and horse ranch at an elevation of 7,400 feet. Minimum stays
are six days at $475 adult with a reduced rate for children. From Alpine, drive
14 miles south on US 191, turn right nine miles on Forest Road 26, then right one
mile on Forest Road 24 to the ranch turnoff.
Campgrounds
Alpine Divide Campground is set in a forest of ponderosa
pine and Gambel oak four miles north of Alpine. It offers sites with drinking water
from about mid-May to mid-September, $10. The rest of the year, camping is on a
pack-in/pack-out basis and free.
Luna Lake Campground
lies near the north shore of this 75-acre lake amidst meadows and ponderosa pine
forests near the New Mexico border; it's open with drinking water from mid-May to
mid-September and costs $10; family and group sites can be reserved (877/444-6777,
www.recreation.gov). Head east four miles
from Alpine on US 180, then turn left 1.5 miles. Mountain bikers hit the dirt on
the Luna Lake Loop, whose 2.5- and 8-mile circuits begin on the right just
before the campground. On the south shore just off the highway, you'll find a free
picnic area with shaded tables, a fishing dock, and a boat ramp. Nearby,
a year-round store offers bait, tackle, and boat rentals. Anglers go after trout
in all four seasons—even through the ice in winter. Birders flock to the west
shore to see a heron rookery in May-June; bald eagles nest as early as January and
fledge between May and early July.
Coronado Trail Cabins &
RV (0.5 mile south of town on US 191, 928/339-4772, $23 RV w/hookups) is open
from about April to October. Outpost RV & Trailer Park (on US 180 near
Luna Lake, 928/339-4854, $15 RV w/hookups) has sites for self-contained units from
April 15 to October 15. Alpine Village RV Park (US 180 in Alpine, 928/339-1841,
www.alpinevillagerv.com) offers sites
year-round at $5 for tents, $27 for RVs w/hookups; showers are free for RVers and
an extra $6 per person for others; weekly, monthly, and yearly rates are offered
too; there's a laundry room and RV dump; turn in 0.6 mile in from US 191. Meadow
View RV Park (one block north of the junction of US 191 and US 180 in Alpine,
928/339-1850, $20 RV w/hookups) is open year-round for self-contained rigs.
Food
High Country Buffet and Lollypop Shoppe (just east on US 180 from
the highway junction in town, daily breakfast, lunch, and dinner, $10) has themed
buffets for lunch and dinner and sometimes for breakfast along with homemade ice
cream and other sweet treats; call for hours in winter. Across the street, Bear
Wallow Cafe (928/339-4310, daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, $6-20) serves
American and Mexican food in a woodsy setting. Tal-Wi-Wi Lodge (3 miles north
of Alpine, 928/339-4319, $6-16) serves breakfast Sat.-Sun. and dinner Thurs.-Sat.
from May to late November. The Alpine Country Club's restaurant (928/339-4944)
serves a brunch on Sunday, lunch Tues.-Sat., and dinner Fri.-Sat. from April 15
to Oct. 15; head east three miles on US 180, then turn south two miles and follow
signs about two miles. Alpine Country Store sells groceries on US 180 in town.
Information and Services
For a list of accommodations and services,
contact the Alpine Chamber of Commerce (P.O. Box 410, Alpine, AZ 85920, 928/339-4330
answering machine, www.alpinearizona.com).
People at the Apache and Sitgreaves National Forests' Alpine Ranger District
office (US 191 in town, P.O. Box 469, Alpine, AZ 85920, 928/339-4384,
www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf, 8 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Mon.-Fri.) provide information on scenic drives, fishing, hiking, mountain biking,
camping, and cross-country ski trails. The district covers the north half of the
Coronado Trail, including Escudilla Mountain and most of the Blue Range Primitive
Area. You can also obtain local tourist information and purchase books and maps.
The TDD number for those with hearing impairments is 928/339-4566.
Alpine's public library (928/339-4925) is 0.4 mile east on US 180 from the
highway junction. The post office is on US 191 just north of the highway
junction. The Tackle Shop and Sports Center (928/339-4338) has groceries,
fishing and hunting supplies, and cross-country ski rentals near the highway junction.
The East and West Forks of the Black River west of town have fishing, hiking, and campgrounds; continue west for Big Lake, Crescent Lake, and other recreation areas.
Blue River-Red Hill Scenic Loop
On this backcountry drive you'll roll
by the Blue River, remote ranches, and rugged hill country. The Forest Service maintains
two small campgrounds along the way—Upper Blue, with spring water, and Blue
Crossing. Both lie near the Blue River at an elevation of 6,200 feet; no charge.
From Alpine, head east three miles on US 180 and turn south on Forest Road 281 (Blue
Road). After 10 miles you'll reach the Blue River; follow it downstream nine miles
to the junction with Forest Road 567 (Red Hill Road). A river ford here can be impassable
in high water. Red Hill Road twists and climbs out of the valley, following ridges
with good views, to US 191, 14 miles south of Alpine. If driving in the other direction,
you'll find the Red Hill Road turnoff between Mileposts 239 and 240 on US 191. The
forest roads are gravel and should be okay in dry weather for cautious drivers.
See the Alpine Ranger District office for more information on this and other scenic
drives in the area.
Hikers may want to try Red Hill Trail
#56; this 7.6-mile trail follows a jeep track to the Blue Range Primitive Area,
descends along ridges via Red Hill (elev. 7,714 feet), drops into Bush Creek, and
follows it to Tutt Creek. Tutt Creek Trail #105 connects the lower end of Red Hill
Trail with Red Hill Road, 0.8 mile to the east. The upper trailhead (elev. 8,000
feet) is on Forest Road 567 one mile east of US 191; the lower trailhead (5,800
feet) is on Forest Road 567 a half mile before the Blue River.
Mountain Bicycling
The Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests offer many
good areas for mountain biking. Marked trails in the Alpine District include upper
(8 miles) and lower (2.5 miles) loops near Luna Lake, Georges Lake near Alpine (4.5
miles, 7.5 miles without shuttle), Terry Flat Loop (six miles) at Escudilla Mountain,
Hannagan Meadow Loop (5.5 miles) south of Alpine, and Williams Valley (five miles)
northwest of Alpine.
Escudilla Mountain and Wilderness
In 1540, Coronado spotted the 10,912-foot
summit of this ancient volcano; perhaps a homesick member of his expedition named
the mountain after an escudilla, a soup bowl used in his native Spain.
In 1951 a disastrous fire burned the forests on the entire north face of Escudilla.
Aspen trees then took over where mighty conifers once stood, the normal sequence
after a mountain fire. Raspberries, snowberries, currants, elderberries, strawberries,
and gooseberries now flourish here too. The forests of spruce, fir, and pine on
top escaped the fire; lower down you'll find surviving woodlands of aspen, Rocky
Mountain maple, ponderosa pine, and Gambel oak. Elk, deer, black bear, and smaller
animals roam the hillsides. Escudilla was once grizzly country, but the last one
was killed by the 1930s.
Now a wilderness area of 5,200 acres,
Escudilla offers excellent hiking. Outstanding views from the fire lookout—the
highest in Arizona—reward those who make the climb. The actual summit (10,912
feet)—Arizona's third highest—lies a half mile to the north and 36 feet
higher, but trees there block the views.
Escudilla National
Recreation Trail, a well-graded, 3.3-mile trail from Terry Flat (elev. 9,600
feet), ascends to Escudilla Lookout through aspen, meadows, and conifers. The old
Government Trail originally began at Hulsey Lake and, though shown on some maps,
it's no longer maintained and isn't recommended.
From US 191
between Mileposts 420 and 421, about six miles north of Alpine and 21 miles south
of Springerville, turn east 4.6 miles on Forest Road 56 to Terry Flat Loop, then
take the left fork 0.4 mile to the trailhead. Terry Flat Loop is a worthwhile destination
in itself—the six-mile dirt road encircles Terry Flat Meadow with many fine
views of Escudilla Mountain. Cautious drivers can usually make the trip with cars
in dry weather. Families enjoy outings and trout fishing at Hulsey Lake, about two
miles in on Forest Road 56; small boats can be carried and hand launched.
Nelson Reservoir
Rainbow, brown, and brook trout live in this 60-acre
lake surrounded by a woodland of pinyon pine and juniper. It's just west of US 191,
11 miles north of Alpine and 10 miles south of Springerville. Restrooms, a paved
boat ramp, and handicapped fishing station are provided at the north end; no fires
or camping. Winter visitors can fish through the ice.
Sipe White Mountain Wildlife Area
Elk, mule deer, pronghorn, and turkey
roam the rolling hills and meadows southwest of Springerville. Waterfowl and other
birds drop by the lakes. A visitor center (928/333-4518 residence) has exhibits
and a few picnic tables; it's usually open 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Wed.–Sun. from
Memorial Day to Labor Day. You're welcome to hike or horseback ride during daylight
hours. The elk population peaks at about 1,000 during the Sept.–Oct. rut season,
when the males bugle and compete with each other and the females meow; sunrise and
sunset are the best times to see and hear the elk in action. Rudd Creek Pueblo,
a short walk from the visitor center, dates to about 1225–1300 when ancestral
Pueblo people used the 50 masonry rooms and two great kivas. From US 191 at Milepost
405 near the crest of a ridge, about five miles south of downtown Springerville,
turn south 5 miles on a gravel road.