The rolling hills of grass and woodlands surrounding Patagonia make up some of
the state's finest cattle and horse land. Patagonia, 19 miles northeast of Nogales,
lies on the alternate route to Tucson. Many people like to make a loop from Tucson
by driving through Sonoita and Patagonia in one direction (I-10, AZ Hwys. 83 and
82) and the Santa Cruz Valley (I-19) in the other.
The long,
grassy park in the middle of town has some tables and the yellow, ca. 1900 Patagonia
Depot of the New Mexico and Arizona Railroad; trains stopped running here in 1962,
and the depot now contains city offices. Also in the park, the Patagonia Butterfly
Garden attracts resident and migrant butterflies from May to early October. Nearby
Richardson Park has a playground.
Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve
The Nature Conservancy looks after
more than 750 acres along Sonoita Creek in this preserve (P.O. Box 815, Patagonia,
AZ 85624, 520/394-2400, http://nature.org/arizona,
7:30 a.m., except 6:30 a.m. April-Sept., to 4 p.m. Wed.-Sun., 7-day entry pass costs
$5, $3 members). Year-round water and a variety of habitats attract many birds,
with about 300 species identified. White-tailed deer, coatimundi, javelina, bobcat,
and other animals live in the thickets and woods. Four native fish species, including
the endangered Gila topminnow, swim in the creek. The splendid cottonwood-willow
riparian forest contains Fremont cottonwoods that tower more than 100 feet. About
2.5 miles of trails make loops near the creek; wheelchairs can follow one loop.
The 3.5-mile loop Geoffrey Platts Memorial Trail climbs into the juniper and oak
uplands on the other side of the road; you'll have good views and a chance to see
resident wildlife; the trailhead is 0.6 mile before the visitor center.
The public is welcome to visit, but no picnicking, camping, or pets are allowed.
The visitor center isn't always staffed, but you can see the outdoor exhibits and
pick up a trail map and bird list. Nature walks begin here at 9 a.m. on Saturday
year-round; no reservation needed. Check with the preserve for other walks and programs.
Visitors during the summer monsoon season should apply insect repellent to keep
off chiggers.
To reach the preserve from AZ 82 in Patagonia,
turn northwest two blocks on Fourth Avenue, then turn left 1.5 miles on Pennsylvania
Avenue. The pavement ends and you'll have to drive across the creekbed—don't
cross if you can't see the bottom. Continue to the visitor center for parking and
trailheads. You can also take the back way by continuing on the dirt road 2 miles
to AZ 82 at an unsigned junction between Mileposts 16 and 17, but the creek ford
is likely to be deeper here.
Hummingbird feeders attract up
to 11 species of hummers at Paton's Birder's Haven, a private residence adjacent
to the preserve; it's the first house on the left just past the creekbed crossing.
Park outside the gate, though handicapped drivers can park inside.
Ghost Towns
Decaying houses, piles of rubble, cemeteries, and old mine
shafts mark deserted mining camps in the Patagonia Mountains to the south. You'll
need the topo or Forest Service maps to find these old sites. In a 45-mile loop
drive, you can visit Harshaw, Mowry, Washington Camp, and Duquesne. You can also
drive east to the Huachuca Mountains, Parker Canyon Lake, or Coronado National Memorial
on back roads. Most are dirt and should be avoided if it has recently rained or
snowed.
Patagonia is a good place to start a drive to these
sites. Turn beside the post office or head east on McKeown Avenue on the Harshaw
Road. You'll pass a trailhead for the Arizona Trail in 2.7 miles. After 5.8 miles
from Patagonia, turn right (pavement ends) and continue 1.8 miles to Harshaw, marked
by a sign, a decaying house on the left, and the cemetery—worth seeing for
its pioneer history—to the right. The road continues to the other sites. Mountain
bikers also enjoy touring these scenic backroads.
Patagonia Lake State Park
Centered on a 265-acre reservoir, the park
(520/287-6965, $7/vehicle day use) offers families and water sports enthusiasts
an enjoyable place to picnic, camp, boat, and fish. Anglers catch largemouth bass,
crappie, sunfish, bluegill, catfish, and, in winter, rainbow trout. Mesquite trees
and some pines provide shade. Facilities include day-use areas, two handicap-accessible
fishing docks, campground loops ($15/vehicle no hookups, $22/vehicle camping w/water
and electric), showers, two boat ramps, a dump station, and a fish-cleaning station.
A store sells groceries and camping supplies. The marina supplies fishing gear and
rents canoes, pedal boats, and fishing boats (you can row or bring your own motor).
At an elevation of 3,750 feet, the park stays open all year; March through October
tends to get busy, when the campground (first-come, first-served) often fills by
Friday afternoon; it's a good idea to call ahead. Picnic areas also fill up on summer
weekends. Groups can reserve a ramada for day use. Boaters may camp at primitive
sites around the lake and on islands. The west half of the lake is open for waterskiing
and personal watercraft Mon.-Fri. from May 1 to Sept. 30 and daily the rest of the
year; the east half of the lake is a no-wake area. Swim at Boulder Beach (no lifeguard).
The visitor center offers natural history exhibits, videos, a tiny library, and
children's projects; you can pick up a bird list and find out about recent sightings.
Birding walks and boat tours go some days; call for the schedule or drop by the
visitor center to sign up. Sonoita Creek Trail begins at the east end of
the hookup campground and winds to the mouth of Sonoita Creek, 1.2 miles roundtrip.
Sonoita Creek State Natural Area, northwest of the state park, holds about 5,000
acres of riparian, grassland, and woodland habitats; trails here are being planned.
From Patagonia, head southwest seven miles on AZ 82, then turn right four miles
on a paved road; from Nogales, go 12 miles northeast on AZ 82, then turn left four
miles. The park gate is closed 10 p.m.-4 a.m.
Entertainment
If you're up to some music and dancing on a weekend,
drop by the La Misión de San Miguel (335 McKeown Ave., 520/394-0123). The
1915 adobe building looks like an old Spanish mission from the outside. Inside,
you're greeted by a fountain and two St. Michaels—one a traditional statue
and the other a painting depicting him as a Native American. And yes, those carved
wooden temple doors inside really did come from India! Farther in, a brightly painted
tropical forest mural contrasts with a 60-foot mural of the Four Horsemen of the
Apocalypse. The beautiful 30-foot bar was made here of rare parota wood from Mexico.
Bands play Fri.-Sat. nights, then Sunday is usually an "open mike."
Antiques and hunting trophies adorn the interior of the 1937 Wagon Wheel Saloon
(Naugle and 4th Aves.), "Patagonia's Original Cowboy Bar".
Accommodations and Campgrounds
The Stage Stop Inn (303 W. McKeown,
520/394-2211 or 800/923-2211, $50 s, $60 d, $80 d kitchenette, $99 or $129 for a
suite) has a restaurant and pool in the middle of Patagonia. Several small inns
offer places to stay in and near town; check with Mariposa Books visitor information
desk or its website for details.
Circle Z Ranch (4
miles southwest of Patagonia, 520/394-2525 or 888/854-2525, www.circlez.com) features
horseback riding, swimming, hiking, birding, and tennis during the Nov. 1-May 15
season. Inclusive rates for adults (age 16 and up) run $1,025-1,600 per week, or
you can choose from weekend and weekday specials.
Patagonia
RV Park (0.7 mile south on the road to Harshaw, 520/394-2491, $10 tents), $22
RV w/hookups) has showers).
Food
The Stage Stop Inn's restaurant (303 W. McKeown, 520/394-2211,
daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, plus a Sun. brunch) serves Mexican and American
food with a choice of indoor or patio seating. Nearby, the Gathering Ground,
(319 McKeown Ave., 520/394-2097, daily for breakfast and lunch) bakes tempting breads
and pastries as well as offering up sandwiches, quiches, ice cream, and coffees.
Velvet Elvis Pizza Company (292 Naugle Ave./Hwy. 82, 520/394-2102,
Thurs.-Sun. for lunch and dinner) offers gourmet pizza, plus chicken and rib dishes,
soups, and organic salads. Red's Real Pit Barbecue (436 Naugle Ave., 520/394-0284,
Fri.-Sun. for lunch and Fri.-Mon. for dinner) serves up Texas-style BBQ.
Information and Services
Mariposa Books (436 Naugle Ave., 520/394-9186)
offers both a bookstore and a tourist information desk (520/394-0060 or 888/794-0060,
www.patagoniaaz.com); closed Tuesday. Look
for a quilt shop and art galleries on McKeown Avenue; another gallery is on Naugle
Avenue. The post office is on the northeast side of town.
This little crossroads town is at the junction of AZ 82 and AZ 83 in gently rolling grasslands. Parker Canyon Lake lies 30 miles to the south and east on AZ 83. Near the junction, you'll find restaurants, shops, gas stations, and a post office.
Accommodations and Food
The Sonoita Inn (520/455-5935,
www.sonoitainn.com) offers spacious rooms—each
named for a local ranch—with views of rolling hills. The rustic yet elegant
Western decor and the high-ceilinged common area with a fireplace make this an exceptionally
pleasant place to stay; it's expensive, however, at $125 d downstairs and $140 d
upstairs, but all rooms drop to $89 d mid-June to mid-August.
For a tiny town, Sonoita offers very good restaurants. At the highway junction,
The Steak Out Restaurant & Saloon (520/455-5205, Sat.-Sun. for lunch
and daily for dinner) has a great selection of steaks along with chicken, ribs,
and fish.
Cafe Sonoita (half a mile east of the highway
junction, 520/455-5278, Fri.-Sat. for lunch and Wed.-Sat. for dinner) typically
offers beef, quail, chicken, seafood, and pasta on its chalkboard menu; its long
wine list includes some local labels.
Grasslands, A Natural Foods Cafe
(south on AZ 83, around the corner from the highway junction, 520/455-4770, Wed.-Sun.,
except Fri.-Sun. in summer, for breakfast and lunch) provides a pleasant alternative
to the usual cafe scene. You can also buy baked goods, preserves, and local wines
here.
Las Cienegas National Conservation Area
The landscape of much of Arizona
changed drastically in the late 1800s, when extensive grazing by domestic cattle
severely depleted native grasses. Livestock still graze in this area—as they
have for 300 years—but they're now controlled. As a result, the grass has
recovered and stands as high as six feet. Fifteen inches of annual rainfall support
some of the best examples of native grassland in the state. Within the 45,000 acres
of the conservation area you'll also find large cottonwood trees lining the banks
of perennial Cienega Creek, oaks and junipers clinging to the hills, and mesquite
trees scattered throughout the range.
The public lands in
the conservation area, previously known as the Empire-Cienega Resource Conservation
Area, are open to individual visitors and campers without permits, but group activities
do require one. There are no paved roads, campgrounds, or picnic areas within the
conservation area. Visitors enjoy birding, wildlife (keep an eye out for pronghorn),
hiking, horseback riding, bicycling, hunting, and no-facility camping (limited to
14 days). Campfires are allowed, but only dead wood lying on the ground may be collected.
For more information and road conditions, call the Bureau of Land Management office
in Tucson, 520/722-4289.
You can enter the conservation area
on the west from AZ 83 between Mileposts 39 and 40, 6.4 miles north of Sonoita,
and follow Empire Ranch Road past Empire Ranch (on the left three miles in from
the highway) to Cienega Creek and other destinations. From the south, you can enter
on South Road off AZ 82 between Mileposts 36 and 37, about four miles east of Sonoita;
this road ends at some corrals just east of Empire Ranch. Together, these roads
make a scenic 11-mile loop that may be passable by cars in dry weather; both are
signed as EC-900.
Parker Canyon Lake
This 130-acre fishing lake west of the Huachucas
is a rarity in a land of little surface water. Trout are stocked in the cooler months
to join the year-round population of bass, northern pike, bluegill, sunfish, and
catfish. The water also attracts many birds and other wildlife, which you can see
from a 4.5-mile hiking trail that goes around the lake. The Arizona Trail
reaches Mile 20 from the Mexican border near the lake.
Lakeview Campground (elev. 5,400 feet) is open all year with drinking water
but no showers or hookups, $10 camping or day use. Groups can reserve nearby
Rock Bluff for day use or camping with the Sierra Vista Ranger District office
(520/378-0311).
A marina (520/455-5847, closed Wed. March-Oct. and Tues.-Thurs.
in winter) provides groceries, fishing supplies, licenses, boat ramp, and boat rentals.
You can rent a rowboat or a boat with electric motor, but you need to bring your
own battery or gas motor (eight hp limit).
Parker Canyon Lake
lies 30 miles south of Sonoita at the end of AZ 83; four miles are gravel but eventually
will be paved. You can also come on gravel roads from Coronado National Memorial
or Nogales. All of these routes pass through highly scenic forest and ranch country.